Greg I'm just waiting for the suit to come in tomorrow for sizing concerns, but definitely still interested in the navy hopsack. Can you perhaps post a picture of that fabric in natural light too like the other fabrics?
EDIT: Nevermind just saw it (missed it the first time). It does looks quite a lot lighter than navy in natural light.
DWF, if I understood your explanation correctly, are you saying that a line of stitching parallel to the "XXXX" as shown in your picture will weaken the tongue and make it prone to tearing? And therefore, there's isn't a row of stitching in your picture along that "XXXX" line?