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Posts by ykurtz

Smaller armholes would likely prevent so much movement on your shoulders. But since the collar stays pretty firm without rising, that's a great result from OTR clothing. If you want to minimize shoulders rising, then you will likely have to go bespoke and get a jacket specifically tailored to fit your body. Off the rack, Brioni and Oxxford does well in keeping the shoulders from rising too high when you raise your arms; but your mileage may vary.
The style of the jacket is pseudo late 50s/early 60s. Both buttons are meant to be closed. In other words it is not the traditional two button where only the top button is closed.
Given all the new styles for Spring and anticipated new ones for Fall, there should be a new wave of seconds or discontinued models coming up shortly at the various outlets and eventually eBay.
Quote: Originally Posted by NorCal Get ready for a shit storm. My first take is that the tailor had a jacket already made and sold it to the OP 'as is' or with miniscule adjustments. I don't understand how a bespoke jacket could be so messed up behind the neck. That's exactly the kind of thing you might expect to see OTR and have adjusted by a tailor. The OP's arms don't qualify as being disproportionately short to me; I really think this...
My reply only addresses one aspect of your quandary. I think some people need 'built up' shoulders to address certain anatomical features such as a wide head/neck, to make their head appear smaller or rather in proportion with the silhouette as a whole. Cary Grant comes to mind immediately. He had a thick neck and a large head for his frame and he almost always wore suits that had a shoulder line that extended past his natural shoulder line. This is easy to notice...
Brioni, Stefano Ricci and many others offer satin ties in Burgundy. That, and a white shirt with your black suit (and white PS of course!) would complement her nicely.
Get a quality navy blazer. Instantly dress up a pair of jeans or chinos and if your shirt isn't high quality to begin with, you're only exposing 10% of it. I think that's your biggest bang for the buck item. Then shoes. Don't forget grooming, too. A well groomed person is almost passable in ok clothes but someone with nose hairs sticking out, dirt under their nails and three day old grease in their hair wouldn't pass muster in bespoke.
Given the width of your head, I think the shoulder width works for you. I'd stick with the 40R, and maybe spend a few bucks on light waist supression.
Quote: Originally Posted by Zambino Hello everyone, I'm wondering if you all can provide opinions on the jacket/pants/shirt/belt/etc. in the photo? I am not sure if I like the jacket or not, so I want some other opinions. Thank you. What's missing is skin and hair color. Is your hair roughly the same color as the jacket? Or in the same ball park? If so, it might work well. If you have black or silver hair, probably not so much.
A lot depends on your complexion. If you have dark hair and light skin, you can go pretty dark navy (almost black). If you have a muted complexion (hair and skin in the same palatte and on the light side), then softer, brighter blues tend to work better (medium to slate blue). I think there isn't an intrinsic right/wrong about the blueness of the suit (though I doubt anyone would wear a turquoise suit to work); it's more about the person wearing it.
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